- Report by Brian
Nicholson
| On Wednesday 25th May thirty-two members of the
Coleshill Twinning Society made the traditional biennial visit
to Chassieu, our twin town in the Rhône-Alpes region of
France. As the plane banked down over the sun-bleached patchwork
of fields that surrounds Chassieu, we felt we could be sure of
warmer weather than that we had left behind in England. Friends
greet us at the airport and transport us and our luggage to their
homes, where we are settled in and then issued with a smart brochure
detailing the events planned for our stay, the first of which
is the official welcome this evening at the local Boulodrôme. |
| Here
some 80 of us gather in a large utility buildingdedicated to
the game ofboules à la lyonnaise or Lyon-style bowls.
On arrival we are offered delicious nibbles andaperitifs, courtesy
of Airports de Lyon. Aline Duret, president of the Dialogues
Chassieu-Coleshill, makes a welcoming speech and explains that
Lyon-style bowls should not be confused with the more common
game of pétanque that one sees played on any old car park,
lawn or beach, elsewhere in France. Lyon-style bowls, she says,
is played on a specially prepared surface and is a game that
calls for strength combined with great skill, courage and intelligence.
In fact, she says, with a twinkle in her eye, it would not be
surprising if, after we've tried it, we prefer it to cricket!
When we do take a turn at throwing the heavy steel bowls across
the red crushed-shale towards the jack, some of us do quite well,
especially the ladies, although, it is always a Frenchman who
hurls the final cannon ball and scatters his opponents' in all
directions. After this fun and effort, we tuck into a generous
buffet, prepared by members of the Dialogues. |
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The
following morning we go by coach to the glassworks at St.Just-St.Rambert,
80km to the west, beyond St. Etienne. It is one of threeremaining
manufacturers of decorative glass in Europe and much of its output
goes to the restoring of ancient monuments. We all don protective
clothing - what a sight we look in out hairnets, safety caps,
high-visibility waistcoats and toe-protectors! - and we follow
the guide into the factory. In the furnace the glass has been
brought to a molten state overnight and the men we now watch
are blowing it into huge fragile test-tube shapes: an extremely
delicate operation. We watch, fascinated, as these tubes first
have their domed ends cracked-off and are then scored down one
side, given a delicate tap with a hammer, and put back into the
heat to be opened-out to form flat panes. Beyond the furnace,
we proceed to the glass store where the panes - cooled, trimmed,labelled,
andof every imaginable colour and surface texture-are kept in
racks. |
After
lunch at Le Befranc Restaurant, at St. Bonnet-le-Château,a
village on the Loire, we visit the Obut Boules Museum nearby.
Here, we discover that boules are not solid but hollow, that
they come in different sizes - to suit the hand of the player
- and come in varying degrees of hardness, some more bouncy than
others. Of course the biggest and most impressive examples are
those used for the Lyon game.
- Friday morning
finds us heading north to the trade guild museum at Romanèche-Thorins,
a small village in the lovely Beaujolais country, an hour's journey
away. We alight from the coach and pause outside the museum to
admire the surrounding vineyards with their vines curving in
graceful perspective up the slopes. The grapes are, as yet, small
but we are told that the hot dry weather should bring a good
vintage. However, the lack of rain this spring is a cause of
great concernto farmers here andfrom the coach we often see the
powerful water jets of irrigation units spraying the thirsty
crops.
The trade
guild museum houses a fine collection of items associated with
le compagnonnage - the guilds of men who practiced carpentry,
masonry, stained glass and other building crafts that developed
in the Middle Ages. In a second room we see howthose early techniques
have now been augmented with steelwork and reinforced concrete.
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| Reinforced
concrete is a theme that we revisit in the afternoon, after a
leisurelylunch at the stylish Château des Loges, at Le
Perréon, for concrete is powerfully represented in the
Dominican Priory of Sainte Marie de la Tourette which stands
on a hillside overlooking Eveux-sur-Abresle. The building is
the design of the celebrated architect Le Corbusier and is an
important work in the late modernist style. At first sight one
could be forgiven for feeling that this immense blockhouse would
have been more at home in the 1950s Bull Ring than in this pastoral
setting. Our guide asks us what we think of it and although no
one wishes to give offence, reluctantly,the word 'ugly' is uttered.-'Don't
worry, says the guide, that's what a lot of people say'. Further
explanation of Le Corbusier's ideas of space, mathematical proportion,
light, rough and smooth surfaces, economy, simplicity, followed
by the opportunity to explore inside the priory, doessomewhat
soften opinions. However, thecavernous unadorned space of the
church with its 7-second echo must surely be a challenge for
any choir or preacher! Like it or not, La Tourette proves to
be the most talked-about visit of our stay. |

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At the Farewell Party on Saturday, in the
Salle des Fêtes,the mayor of Chassieu, Alain Darlay, says
how happy he is to witness the joy that these exchanges bring,
enabling us to renew friendships, to learn more about our respective
cultures and to strengthen the spirit of European co-operation.
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He
is looking forward to visiting Coleshill for the first time next
year and celebrating the 30th anniversary of the Twinning. Chairman
Malcolm Butler thanks the Chasseulands for their wonderful hospitality
saying how well he knows the difficulties involved in putting
together an itinerary. He himself had been apprehensive about
the glassworks: the last time he went to one he broke a valuable
vase. This time he kept his hands in his pockets! In conclusion
he presents to Chassieu a decorated plate commemorating ourrecent
royal wedding.
On behalf of the Dialogues,President Aline
Duret, thanks Malcolm for the gift and asked him to pass on the
Chasseuland's best wishes to the royal couple next time he sees
them. After more light-hearted remarks about our skill, or lack
of it, at boules, Aline thanks Monsieur Darlay, the Chassieu
Town Council and Airports de Lyon for their support. She especially
thanks all those of the Dialogueswho have been sprucing-up their
guest rooms and planning recipes for the past fortnight in anticipation
of our arrival. Before the end of the evening she presents Malcolm
with a trophy cup in memory of our night at the Boulodrôme.
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The
speeches are now over and dinner is served. During the meal we
are entertained by Yves du Rêve, a lively character dressed
as Charlie Chaplin, who has brought along his barrel organ and
an assortment of other amusing props. His repertoire ranges from
Edith Piaf to The Beatles, from rap to poetry, and he soon has
the room singing. Can this be how karaoke started?
Before we begin our journey home the following
day, some of us attend a bi-lingual committee meeting on the
terrace behind Aline's house. Both Chassieu and Coleshill are
keen to recruit new members, be they individuals, couples or
associations.
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In
the past our local school, football, rugby, tennis, music and
drama groups have all exchanged with their opposite number in
Chassieu. The Twinning would like to help foster more such links
in the future.
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| For information contact Anita
(01675 470 443) or send us an e-mail by clicking here |
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